The missing drop package was no big deal. I carried reserves for several days and had already skipped a few resupply packages because I didn’t need them. A lot of redundancy was built into my resupply plan because the mail is unreliable at best in remote Alaska. I had just short of 50mi to go to White Mountain, with Golovin on the way. I knew both of my next resupply packages had arrived.
The first stretch of today’s journey led along the shore on the sea ice to the Walla Walla cabin. I didn’t stop there and continued straight into the Kwiktalik Mountains. There were some good climbs up to 1,000ft of elevation. After the flat sea ice sections, I quite enjoyed some climbing. On the way down to the Golovnin Lagoon (the spelling is different from Golovin), a local on a snowmachine stopped. He was on his way to fix up a house for his daughter in Golovin. He showed me the weather and wind forecast on his phone and said I’d be good for the next few days, but that I shouldn’t dally. Did I give that impression?! Then he suddenly said he had to go because his wife was tracking him and would question him why he stopped for so long.
There was mostly blank ice on the lagoon to Golovin, where I stopped quickly to receive my drop package and some amazing (strong and sweet) tea from volunteers. I was eager to get to White Mountain, some ~17mi away from Golovin. There are no roads to White Mountain. Depending on the season, one can reach the town by snowmachine, boat, ATV, or plane.
Once again it was late and dark when I finally reached my destination on the Fish River. What I found was a little paradise: an entire house to myself, with a real bed, a shower, and the most delicious moose soup. A big thanks to longtime ITI supporter and trail angel Joanne and her family! I got some quality rest, dried all my gear, and refueled myself before tackling the remaining 77mi to Nome.
There was open water in that crack. I did not know how deep it was.
Leaving Elim behind…
Wearing traction devices or have studded shoes is essential on the ice. If that wasn’t obvious.
Another crack. And you can often hear the ice make noises as it “works” and does its things.
The Walla Walla cabin.
A cabin with a view. Again.
Leaving the sea ice behind. There were some good climbs on that section.
No words needed.
Thanks Joanne and family! This really was paradise.
I devoured the delicious moose soup, the bread, and the mandarine like there was no tomorrow. Thanks!
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