REPORT: Grand Canyon Solo Double Crossing Run – Rim to Rim to Rim

Christof Teuscher
On Oct 26, 2018, I went back to do a few more crossings. See Grand Canyon R2R2R2R2R2R2R2R2R FKT for more info. The info below is from 2014 and terribly outdated. Please don’t rely on it.

On March 16, 2014, I completed a Grand Canyon Solo Double Crossing Ultra Endurance Run: Rim to Rim to Rim (R3). ITB issues slowed me down considerably on the way up, but I was able to finish in 11h34min.

The following movie was all filmed by myself with a GoPro. Music: (c) Nils Petter Molvaer & The Levellers.

Trails and Distances:

  • http://www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/trail-distances.htm
  • South Kaibab Trail: The trail begins on the South Rim near Yaki Point, and descends to the Colorado River. Elevation change from rim to river is 4860 ft (1480 m), along a 6.3 mile (10.1 km) trail. Because of the unavailability of water and steepness of the South Kaibab Trail, rangers recommend hiking down this trail only – and recommend using the Bright Angel Trail for the hike out.
  • River Trail: The trail has little elevation variation and follows the Colorado River for 1.7 miles (2.7 km) between the Bright Angel and South Kaibab trails. Two foot bridges permit access to the north side of the Colorado River.
  • Bright Angel Trail: The trail begins on the South Rim just west of Kolb Studio, and descends to the Colorado River. Elevation change from rim to river is 4460 ft (1360 m), along a 7.8 mile (12.6 km) trail. This trail passes through Indian Garden.
  • North Kaibab Trail: The trail begins on the North Rim at the head of Roaring Springs Canyon and descends to the Colorado River. Elevation from rim to river is 5850 ft (1780 m), along a 14.2 mi (22.9 km) trail.

gc_distances

Pace table:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AgQngr_qjujTdHJaeWRMS1dBX1lSZ1Y1Vk1DUWJUa0E&usp=drive_web#gid=0 (can be downloaded as an Excel or OpenOffice spreadsheet)

gc_pace_tableActual times: http://www.strava.com/activities/121645702

Timeline:

Sat, Mar 15, 2014

  • 5:20am: US Airways flight 554 from Portland to Flagstaff (via Phoenix)
  • 9:39am: Arrival in Flagstaff. Picked up rental car and drove to rim.
  • 12:00pm: Arrival at South Rim. I stayed in the Yavapai Lodge because it was the only availability: http://www.grandcanyonlodges.com/yavapai-lodge-413.html

Sun, Mar 16, 2014

  • 3:00am: Alarm. Checked out and drove to Bright Angel trail head.
  • 4:00am: Started to run down the Bright Angel trail.
  • 3:30pm: Arrived back at South Kaibab trail head. Rode the shuttle back to the Bright Angel trail head, then drove back to Flagstaff.
  • 6:00pm: Arrived at airport
  • 9:15pm: US Airways flight departed Flagstaff for Portland (via Phoenix)
  • 1:28am: Landed in Portland

Fuel:

  • 2,800 calories of Tailwind
  • 14 gels
  • A few candied ginger slices
  • A few chocolate-covered coffee beans

Gear:

  • Buff
  • Headlamp
  • Gloves
  • Compression sleeves
  • Salomon exo compression shorts
  • Salomon exo shirt
  • Wind breaker
  • Arm warmers
  • Two 21oz bottles
  • Two 17oz bottles
  • Two 7oz bottles with pre-mixed Tailwind syrup
  • Salomon S-Lab ultra vest
  • Brooks Cascadia 7 shoes
  • Black Diamond Z-Poles
  • Water treatment tablets
  • First aid kit

Lessons learned and other stuff:

  • In general, I felt I carried too much water. There was water pretty much everywhere, except on the North Rim. If you are used to treat your water from streams, there are even more opportunities. I would plan my refill strategy a bit more wisely to minimize the pack weight. On the other hand, it’s better to be on the safe side.
  • Poles worked great for me.
  • I didn’t wear gaiters and was fine. The dust gets in your shoes no matter what.
  • I didn’t stash any food or drinks.
  • I only saw one person on the North side, but the North Rim was still closed in March.
  • My initial plan was to go back up the Bright Angel trail, but I decided to take the shorter South Kaibab route after experiencing serious ITB issues at the bottom of the canyon.
  • There are many steps. Make sure you don’t always take them with the same leg. I believe that was the main reason for my ITB issues.
  • I did not need microspikes. The rangers said the North Rim was pretty much snow free, so I didn’t carry them with me.

Resources:

REPORT: Snowshoeing 30mi Around Crater Lake in 20 Hours

Christof Teuscher
Update: I’ve done this in 11h 18m 21s in 2020. See FKT entries for latest records.

On Dec 14, 2013, I set out to circumvent Crater Lake on snowshoes. I had done this previously in 3 days/2 nights and knew it could be done much faster. The key to faster is of course going lighter. My goal for this new attempt was to do it nonstop in less than 24h.

In order to get a backcountry permit, I had to tell the rangers that I was going to be out for 2-3 days with a tent, sleeping bag and whatnot. I had no intention to carry any of that.

I headed out with a light backpack that had the food for about 36h, just in case I had to spend the night. I also carried the necessary emergency gear, such as an emergency bivy. Conditions were supposed to be great, but it’s a long way and many things can happen. And of course there is no easy bailout route once you are on the other side of the lake. Going back could be exactly as long and painful as going forward.

The movie clip below documents the adventure. I carried a GPS, but did not have it log the track continuously. I did not carry a SPOT transponder because I had none at that point.

I finished the 30mi in 20h. I only stopped to melt snow. That was quite time-consuming, but carrying more water may have slowed me down as well. It’s a fine line.

I dropped the permit off at the ranger station shortly before 7am and sent them an e-mail once I got back home. Of course they thought I had given up and returned after spending one night out there. They were very surprised to learn that I had made it around the entire lake in 20h throughout the night. According to them, it is the fastest known time (FKT) for a snowshoeing trip.

I did not see a single person on the adventure except at the very beginning on the rim.

Tips and tricks:

  • It’s easier to stay warm than to warm up.
  • Stay hydrated and properly fueled. Do not fall behind. Know how many calories you need, pack accordingly, and eat frequently.
  • Address hot spots in shoes immediately. They will only get worse otherwise.
  • Keep moving, focus on relentless forward progress.
  • Do not drive home for 5h after staying up all night.
  • Use lighter poles.
  • Know how to take care of yourself.
  • Have an emergency/bailout plan. Cell phones do not work.
  • Carry the right gear and have the right skills. Never use gear you haven’t used before.
  • Avoid single points of failure. E.g., if your stove fails, you can’t melt water anymore. Without proper hydration, it will be difficult to complete such an adventure.
  • Conditions can be dramatically different around the lake. The snow pack can be very different.
  • The hardest part is the second half. In fact, when you think you are half around the lake, you have by far not done half the mileage.
  • There is very few wildlife in the winter, so nothing to worry about.
  • Breaking trail can be extremely tiresome and energy-consuming. Be ready for significantly more snow at higher elevations on the south-east and south side of the lake.
  • There are a few avalanche zones. Assess carefully and use a bypass if necessary. The ranger will give you maps.
  • Carry a map even if you think you know the route. I recommend a GPS too. The first time I got briefly lost at night. The road is not always obvious in the winter, especially higher up on the plains. I was happy to have a GPS track saved that led me back on track.
  • Crater Lake is known for extreme temperatures. Be ready for extremely cold (and starry) nights.
  • Don’t do this at home. You need to be in great physical and mental shape.

I don’t think I was particularly fast, so there is definitely room for improvement. Overall, this was a great adventure, however!